Mirrajumper
Well-known member
Getting close. No garage days allowed on Mother’s Day! So have to wait until Monday to wrap it up.
What have you done to your DEFENDER today?
- Thread starter javelinadave
- Start date
in quest to stamp out heating at low speed, i'm trying the flow kooler water pump. The manufacturer claims higher flow rate at less than 3000 RPM. The reviews on the internet (by mostly by jeep owners) are mixed. Here are a few pix from the project. The original pump seem fine - bearing has little/no play. Now, i need to get on the trail on a 90F+ day and see what happens.
I decided to pull the the swivel as a unit to refresh this side. I was not prepared for how heavy it was. This at least gives me a chance to work on this in my garage and not be blocked by the daily rains.
Also, how are you all able to get the correct torque on your wheel bearings? Every time I torque down the outer, it also tightens the inner to the point where the wheel doesn’t even spin. This is without having yet bent the lock washer tabs.
Frobisher
Well-known member
Once you have the inner torqued, you need to bend the washer tab down. That's what keeps it from tightening as you're describing. Then, you bend the tab forward on the outer, and you're done. At least, with that part...
Mirrajumper
Well-known member
You might look over the manual pics. I don’t see any mention of an inner bearing locking tab. 50 NM, back off 90 degrees and tighten 10 NM. Outer lock nut is a one time 50 NM with lock tab.
When you reassemble, you will want to it on the truck a la carte….as the swivel preload is sans axle and and swivel housing seal. Locktite as needed. Torque values in bottom pic.
When you reassemble, you will want to it on the truck a la carte….as the swivel preload is sans axle and and swivel housing seal. Locktite as needed. Torque values in bottom pic.
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So in the manual photo above, it says to bend the tabs after torquing the lock nut. I think I’ve tried it both ways but they still move in tandem.
Mirrajumper
Well-known member
Part #10 is a spacer washer, part #8 is a bendable tab….
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
finally finished the barrier mat install. it was more annoying that I originally thought, but probably still easier than the wright...maybe
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supertreeman
Well-known member
Wow that looks great!
Mirrajumper
Well-known member
Looks great! They are a PITA. You might consider modify/cut the floor mat to take out the footwells easier for water/sand etc.
Mirrajumper
Well-known member
P gasket! Trying the factory metal one this time.
Okay for whatever reason the drivers side torqued up no problem. I guess I’ll try again with the passenger side.
Managed to get this somewhat buttoned up today. New wheel bearings, new axle/cv, drive flange, hub seal and studs. This went way faster this time around.
erover82
Well-known member
Once the preload is set on the inner nut, and the washer is bent over it, the nut should be incapable of spinning unless the washer spins, and the washer can't spin because it's locked to the stub axle by the flat seen here in #15.
Mirrajumper
Well-known member
You installed new races and rear seal?
Oh yes that actually makes perfect sense. Thanks!
Yep, and managed to hit my hand as hard as I possibly could while driving one of the races in. I think people in space heard me yell F.